Smart Shopping: Ranges



Getting Started l Types l Features l Brands

Manufacturers are serving up new names and claims as they prod you to spend a little more on your next cooking appliance. But our tests show that when it comes to good cooking, it often pays to pay less. But our tests continue to show that "pro" isn't necessarily a step up in either performance or reliability.

GETTING STARTED

Gas and electric ranges can give you fine performance. Serious chefs prefer gas for the quick response and visual confirmation of a flame. But electric elements generally heat faster and maintain low heat more precisely. Dual-fuel ranges combine a gas cooktop with an electric oven. We see no advantage in that combination.

Climbing the social ladder
Most ordinary electric and gas ranges are 30 inches wide, while the huge pro-style gas models favored by decorators may span 36 inches or more. But more ordinary ranges now have beefy knobs, rugged grates, and all-stainless construction. In this range guide, we compare and contrast types and features.

TYPES

Stand-alone ranges are best for kitchens where you're simply replacing a range or where the range is the centerpiece, as with professional-style ranges. There are two types of ranges: electric and gas.

Electric ranges
Most smoothtop ranges have four elements in three sizes: one or two medium-power elements (about 1,500 to 1,800 watts), a small element (about 1,200 watts), and one or two large ones (about 2,500 watts or more). Some have a fifth element -- typically a 100-watt warming element -- instead of a center section.

Coil-top electric ranges still offer the most performance for the dollar. But smoothtops, which place the elements beneath a sleek ceramic surface, have displaced coil tops in all but the lowest-priced models. Induction elements use magnetic coils below the ceramic-glass surface to generate heat directly in the pot or pan rather than the cooking surface.

Pros: Coil tops generally heat faster than smoothtops, and they're less expensive as a group. Smoothtops are sleeker and make it easier to wipe up spills because there are no electric coils or gas burners protruding above the surface. Induction cooktops take the cake for quick heating and energy efficiency.
Cons: Coil-top models won't win any styling awards. Induction elements add to the price and require special magnetic cookware.

Gas ranges
The capacity of a burner is measured in British thermal units (Btu) per hour. Most gas ranges have four burners in three sizes: one or two medium-power burners (about 9,000 Btu), a small burner (about 5,000 Btu.), and one or two large ones (about 15,000 Btu or more). Some have a fifth burner instead of a center section. Gas-on-glass models that mount gas burners above a smooth ceramic surface are an option.

Pros: An experienced chef may find it easier to judge heat by the appearance of the gas flame. Smoothtop and coil elements tend to retain heat longer than gas burners when you move from a high to a low setting.
Cons: In general, electric ranges provide faster high heating, though performance is mode specific.

FEATURES

Keep high-tech options in perspective. Some individual features are no guarantee of good overall performance. Here are the range features to consider.

Control lockout
It lets you disable the oven controls. We recommend it for households with children.

Convection
Many higher-priced electric and gas ovens use a fan to circulate the hot air in an oven. Convection reduces cooking time, especially for large roasts.

Digital display
We prefer it to a knob. It allows for more-precise temperature setting.

Electronic touchpads
Be sure they're well placed and visible while you cook. Front-mounted pads are easy to bump and reset by accident.

Elements or burners
On electric and gas ranges, look for at least one high-heat element or burner (at least 2,500 watts or 15,000 Btu), especially if you often cook for a crowd. High heat sears and stir-fries especially well, and it can heat large quantities quickly. On gas ranges, sealed burners keep crumbs from dropping beneath the cooktop.

Hot-surface light
This light warns when an element is still hot and is particularly useful on smoothtops.

Low-power simmer burner
In a gas range, it provides an extra-low setting for delicate sauces. But this feature is not essential--the other burners should be capable of simmering.

Raised edge around the cooktop
It contains spills and makes cleanup much easier.

Self-cleaning cycle
It uses high heat to burn off spills and spatters in the oven. An automatic safety lock on most self-cleaning models prevents the oven door from being opened until the oven has cooled. Some models have a countdown display that shows the time left in the cycle. The self-cleaning cycle helps eliminate the drudgery of cleaning an electric or gas oven by hand.

Six or more oven-rack positions
The more the better. You can adjust for the size of the food and distance to the broiler element or flame.

Smoothtop vs. coils

Only the least-expensive electric models use coils these days. Smoothtops make it easier to clean up spills but require a special cleaner, and dropped pots and sugary liquids can damaged them. Coil tops are tougher and easier to replace, but they require more cleaning time.

Most smoothtops have expandable (dual or triple) elements that allow you to switch between a large, high-power element and a small, low-power element contained within it. Some have an elongated "bridge" element that spans two elements to accommodate elongated cookware. Many have one or more hot-surface warning lights--a key safety feature because the surface of an electric range can remain hot long after the elements are turned off.

Time/delay start
It lets you set a time for the electric or gas oven to start and stop cooking. But this feature is not essential--you shouldn't leave the oven on when it's unattended, and most foods shouldn't stay in a cold oven for long.

Trivection
This microwave feature in some electric ovens speeds cooking. Trivection uses three technologies--thermal heating, convection, and microwaves--to reduce cooking time. It works very well, though it's expensive.

Warming drawer
This convenient feature helps keep plates and food warm and comes in handy when you are cooking for a crowd.

Variable-broil
Most electric and gas ovens have it. It provides adjustable settings for foods that need slower or faster cooking.

BRANDS

In addition to the familiar brands you grew up with, you'll find more big names -- and some newcomers -- competing at the "pro" end of the price spectrum as kitchens morph into places to show off as well as cook. This guide will help you to compare ranges by brand.

Amana
This value-oriented, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $400 and $1,000. Amana offers stylish appliances with clever features at affordable prices. The cooking line includes gas and electric ranges. More than 40 years ago, Amana introduced the first countertop microwave and changed the way Americans cook.

Electrolux
This upper-midlevel brand offers cooking appliances priced between $1,500 and $2,500. The cooking line includes gas, electric, and dual-fuel ranges. The Electrolux name is new to the U.S. market, but has been used in Europe for more than 70 years. The appliances feature a modern design and touch glass controls.
Electrolux also has the high-end Icon line, with most cooking appliances costing $4,000 and $6,000 each. The line includes gas, electric, and dual-fuel ranges. The line promotes innovation, performance, and flexibility with premium features at premium prices. Icon appliances are sold through independent appliance retailers.

Frigidaire
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $500 and $1,500. The Frigidaire cooking line includes gas and electric ranges loaded with time-saving and high-performance features with a classic design. The appliances are sold in matching kitchen suites.


GE
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $500 and $1,500. The line includes gas and electric ranges with a timeless look and up-to-date features that offer excellent performance and value.

GE Profile
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells gas, electric, and dual-fuel ranges priced from $1,000 to $2,000. The line includes a wide variety of price points and features, possibly the most in the industry. The appliances are sold in matching kitchen suites.

GE Café
This upper-midlevel, mass-market brand sells gas and dual-fuel freestanding ranges priced above $2,000. The latest brand from GE, the Café line is characterized by stainless-steel exteriors and updated styling. Think modern restaurant kitchen.

GE Monogram
This high-end line offers pro-style ranges priced from $5,000 to $7,000 for gas, electric, and dual-fuel. Monogram appliances are made to be top performing, and positioned for high-end consumers. The appliances are sold in matching kitchen suites and are sold through independent appliance retailers.

Hotpoint
This value-oriented mass-market brand offers electric and gas ranges priced between $400 and $800.

Jenn-Air
This high-end line offers appliances priced between $1,500 and $6,000. Jenn-Air makes high-performance cooking appliances in a choice of stylish collections that include stainless steel and other finishes.

Kenmore
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $500 and $1,500. Introduced in 1927, Kenmore has earned a solid reputation with consumers. The appliances are sold through Sears stores.

Kenmore Elite
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $500 and $1,500. Kenmore Elite offers more innovative features than the Kenmore line. The appliances are also sold through Sears stores.

Kenmore Pro
This high-end line sells cooking appliances priced between $1,500 and $6,000. Taking inspiration from professional kitchens, Kenmore Pro offers pro-look gear with styling and features like stainless-steel construction, heavy-duty knobs, and other premium features. The appliances are sold through Sears stores.

KitchenAid
This high-end brand sells a broad range of cooking appliances priced between $1,500 and $6,000. Its Architect Series II collection includes built-in wall ovens, electric, gas, and dual-fuel ranges, induction, gas and electric cooktops, microwave-hood combination ovens and hoods, and a slow-cook warming drawer. Its pro-style ranges have convection and steam-assist technology.

LG
This midlevel brand sells cooking appliances priced between $1,000 and $2,500. New to cooking appliances, LG is known for high-tech design and technology and gear characterized by stylish controls and a large capacity in its freestanding ranges. Its Dual Convection System claims a 30 percent faster preheat time for ovens.

Maytag
This midlevel, mass-market brand makes appliances priced between $500 and $2,000. Maytag, the first brand to introduce the double oven range in North America, offers a full line of dependable and durable cooking appliances such as built-in ovens, freestanding ovens (single or double), gas and electric cooktops, microwave/oven combinations, and downdraft hoods.

Samsung
This midlevel brands sells cooking appliances priced between $1,000 and $2,500. In 2008, Samsung released a range with the SteamQuic cleaning system, a three-fan true-convection range designed to cook food more evenly.

Thermador
This high-end brand sells cooking appliances priced between $1,500 and $6,000. Thermador is known for its innovation and today the company is aiming to combine state-of-the-art cooking with great style. These ranges are sold through independent appliance retailers.

Viking
This high-end brand sells cooking appliances priced between $4,500 and $6,000, including gas, electric, and dual-fuel ranges. Viking ushered in the pro-style look more than a decade ago, and is considered the benchmark for gourmets. The company adds premium features to its ranges including high-output burners. The company offers the Professional and the Designer series, both sold through independent appliance retailers.

Whirlpool
This midlevel, mass-market brand sells appliances priced between $500 and $1,500. Whirlpool's freestanding ranges offer features like hidden bake elements, power burners, and convection technology. Whirlpool introduced a range designed specifically for the Hispanic consumer in 2006 and features English and Spanish controls, as well as a comal for heating tortillas.

Wolf
This high-end brand sells cooking appliances priced above $5,000, including gas and dual-fuel ranges. Wolf targets consumers who want a pro-appliance look and high performance. These ranges are sold through independent appliance retailers.



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